Wednesday, May 26, 2010

At 14 camp, carrying to 16,400'

The team was out of contact for a few days, I believe there was technical difficulties with the satellite phone which have been resolved.....Zach called this afternoon to report their progress; the team finally got their weather window and moved to 14,000 camp. Most of the team carried a load up the fixed lines today and established a cache at 16,400' and then descended again to camp. The fixed lines are the first steep terrain the expedition has encountered. This year, what is sometimes a snow slope is a blue ice slope, polished by high winds and a relative lack of precipitation; it is hard work to climb with a heavy pack, so the National Park Service has for years fixed lines on the slope so climbers can clip into it with ascenders. Having ascenders on the line means if anyone was to slip they have a safety rope to check any fall. Above the fixed lines is the beginning of one of the most aesthetic parts of the West Buttress, the ridge between the top of the fixed lines and 17 camp; most Mountain Trip groups move up this ridge for 400 to 500' and dig a cache hole.
The carry day is important for acclimatization- our teams heed the mountaineer's adage 'climb high, sleep low', which spurs the body to adapt to the higher altitude but allows it to recuperate in the thicker air at 14 camp. Tomorrow is a planned rest day, during which the team will gather its strength for the big move to 17,000' camp. More soon, thanks for standing by.....

5 comments:

  1. Good luck on the blue ice and remember no ice dancing Ernie!! Enjoy your rest day ... John and Ruth (Durham UK)

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  2. Wow, sounds beautiful, if a little precarious! No snow angels then? Hope everyone is acclimating well and enjoying the climb. Onwards and upwards, twende!

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  3. Thanks for putting up those comments! Enjoy the pizza(s) and the great show around you.
    Message to Pospsy (Tom): think of the big ceviche that you will enjoy after this great experience!
    Hugs
    The Quenees

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  4. Great work guys, summit day soon, will be a really big day. Been following the progress at school on my 6x4 interactive whiteboard, and you featured in a observation round quiz on the last day of half-term today with my Geography classes. Flying Gundol (chief headhunter from Borneo) to London next week to come and stay! It's going to be very interesting...

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  5. I see a summit waiting for you Charlie Charlie, go for it!

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